Where To Eat and Drink On Formentera
I’ve been promising a blog post with my Formentera recommendations for years, but it’s a bit overwhelming as I have so much to say about it, so rather than a general guide, I thought I’d at least start fulfilling that promise with my eating and drinking recommendations which is a bit more manageable, though I’ve done a LOT of eating and drinking there so it’s actually not as manageable as I first thought!
This years trip was made extra special, as we were with such a brilliant easy-going bunch of friends, including my sister from another mister, who had travelled an impressive 36 hours from Sydney to join us for the last six nights. We’d not seen each other for over a decade, and it was most definitely a reason to celebrate.
We’ve been holidaying on this dreamy Balearic island for twelve years, and it was very much love at first sight. I can’t even really explain why, but aside from the obvious beautiful beaches, crystal clear water and amazing restaurants and beach bars, it just has something magical about it, and it’s had us returning year after year after year. We LOVE it, and if you go, I’m certain you will know what I’m talking about and love it too.
Unspoilt to an extent, well, in that it doesn’t have any fast food chains or high-rises, and is a protected Unesco World Heritage site because of the Posidonia meadows that grow in the sea around the coast line. This clever, vital plant contributes to the quality and oxygenation of the water and submarine ecosystem. You can read more about the importance and protection of Posidonia here.
There is also now a cap on the number of vehicles allowed on the island as well as a tourist licence cap for the next several years, so they really are making sure the magic is preserved as well as protecting the interest of the 12,000 permanent residents.
Just to cover a couple of general island FAQ’s before I delve into the eating and drinking specifics…
Image: Cala Soana (copyright Bianca Hall)
How do you get there?
By boat from Ibiza. There is no other option. Even the wealthiest of wealthy can’t fly in - there is no airport, and no helipad for private use. Perhaps this adds to its magic. There are options from other Spanish ports I believe but you’ll have to explore that yourself or this post will never see the light of day.
You can also get the ferry to Formentera from the smaller port of Santa Eulalia on Ibiza, but the journey time is longer at an hour and twenty minutes, and may also be much smaller boats and therefore a much rougher crossing. I’ll spare you the story of when we did it on our first visit - lets just say, NEVER again. Stick to the main port okay?
So your best bet is to get a ferry from the main port in Ibiza Town, which is about a ten minute / €20 cab ride from Ibiza airport. There are several companies operating like Balearia and Trasmapi, and boats go regularly during the day and evening in peak season. We usually buy open returns in advance online which I think works out a little cheaper. If you want to splash out, you could also do a private water taxi which cuts the time by about ten minutes, but I’d rather save my pounds for cocktails!
This year tickets were around £130 return for a family of 4 (we are 3 adults and one child) during peak season. Most ferries take around 37 minutes, and the views are nothing short of spectacular. You might want to take some travel sickness tablets especially for kids as it can get a little rocky sometimes.
Is everything open all year?
Nope. The season runs from April / May through to Sept/October, when all the beach bars and restaurants and many others close til the next season. There are around 12,000 full time residents so obviously not everything closes, but don’t expect a cocktail by the beach in March.
Do I need a car?
Yes, you really do, though there are buses and it is possible to get around the island on them. Lots of people cycle and hire scooters too, but for a family, a car is a must.
General:
Many people will think you’ve mis-pronounced Fuerteventura (in the Canary Islands) when you say Formentera, as surprisingly it’s still relatively unknown. Part of me wants to keep it that way, but the other part wants to share the love. Besides, I get asked all the time, so it’s good to be able to refer people here, plus I have a terrible memory, so this is as much for me as anyone else.
There is a hospital and a big supermarket (and many many smaller ones) in the main town San Francesc (which you’ll see written at least three different ways), but not a Starbucks or McDonalds in sight. You can get your fix back over in Ibiza Town if you need it.
Take no prisoners when it comes to mosquito protection, especially at night at the beach bars and restaurants. Once I got bitten so much on the first night and had a really nasty reaction (Skeeter syndrome) and it really put a downer on the rest of my holiday - no amount of antihistamine spray and tablets really took the edge off - prevention is key!
ANYWAY, I think it’s only fair that I also point out that Formentera is NOT a cheap place to holiday. The accommodation is expensive, as is the food and drinks in restaurants. In fact, over the twelve years we’ve been going, the cocktail price at one favourite restaurant has risen from €15 (comparable to higher London prices) to €19, and I would not be at all surprised if it hit a nicely rounded €20 by next summer. Is this justified? Probably not, but do we love it anyway? YES.
It’s worth noting that if you’re staying in a villa that alcohol is cheap to buy at the supermarket, so it’s possible to balance out the crazy prices if you’re not drinking and dining out all the time.
See? I can’t help myself, I’ve gone way off track already, so back to food and drink…
If you’re there in peak season (June - September) don’t presume you can get a walk-in for dining, especially for larger party sizes. Our party ranged from 9 to 12 most nights, so we planned and booked ahead, though we did move things about a little and were still able to get tables for the same evening in some cases.
There are a LOT of restaurants on this relatively small island. Like LOADS. So this is just a small sample of some we’ve loved for years, and with a few new to us additions from this year.
Most places will cater for children even if they don’t have a specific kids menu, though it might just be pesto or tomato pasta.
I’ve included a star dish for each restaurant, and linked to menus where possible, but of course you should expect that menus and prices may change, and indeed in some cases they already have.
To Eat (in no particular order)
Image: Sa Plageta (copyright Bianca Hall)
Sa Platgeta
Where: Overlooking the sea on Migjorn Beach
Camino de Can Simonet I, 3062, San Francisco Javier
Tel: +34 971 18 76 14
Best for: Casual lunch or dinner with the locals
Star Dish: Fish Stew and Paella
Ocean views, completely open with some undercover and some garden seating, it’s not fancy, not overly expensive, in fact pretty great value for Formentera, with a big menu and I hear the fish stew is great. It has a certain charm and local feel that keeps us going back. Especially great on the first night for keeping it super casual and easy, with a good selection for kids too. A walk away from Kiosko 62, where you could have a pre-dinner drink. No cocktails that I know of, but they do a good Aperol Spritz!
Casbah Restaurant
Where: Outdoor Garden Setting, at Casbah Hotel
Playa de Migjorn, 07871
Tel: +34 971 322 051
Best For: A special dinner
Star Dish: Grilled squid, potato cream and sautéed vegetables followed by Catalan cream of roasted sweet potato and goat cheese ice cream
At the other end of the scale is the restaurant at Hotel Casbah. You definitely need to book ahead here, even if you’re staying at the hotel. They’re run separately and it’s very popular and will possibly become more so as it has just won a Best Restaurant award. Lovely food and the magical outdoor garden setting and good service makes it really special. Plus they plonk an extremely generous bottle of Meloncello Cream Liqueur on your table with the bill. For a high end restaurant that is attached to a child friendly hotel, the offering for kids is limited, so they could do with working on that.
Ca Na Pepa
Where: Centre of San Fransesc (the main town)
Plaça de la Constitució, 5, 07860 San Francisco Javier
Tel: +34 608 57 60 60
Best For: Breakfast, Lunch or Dinner
Star Dish: Dinner: Caponata to start, followed by Sicilian Fettuccine. For lunch they do a great Caesar salad and Club Sandwich and Hot Dogs.
A long time favourite for dining in the centre of town - great for both lunch and dinner (bet it’s good for breakfast too) with something to suit pretty much all tastes. I have only good things to say about this place and the service is always great and friendly too. Have a pre or post dinner drink at Big Store which is just around the corner, and pudding at Mukkaria, the ice-cream parlour down the road. Booking for dinner is a must, but you will probably get a walk-in for lunch.
Voga Mari
Where: Off the boardwalk, over-looking Migjorn Beach
Road of the Mola km 9.5. Migjorn Beach
Tel: +34 672 06 98 09
Best For: Casual Lunch
Best Dish: Fish Stew and Paella
Menu
New to us, but not to our friends who have been going for years, Voga Mari was another real treat with a slightly more local feel, set back from the beach off the boardwalk of Migjorn beach. Great for pre or post beach hang with a delicious menu. You can also get take away drinks to take to the beach.
Es Codol Foradat (same restaurant group as the similarly priced but not as well located Can Carlitos in the Savina, and the more upmarket, magical Can Carlos in San Francesc)
Location: Beachfront Es Arenals Migjorn Beach
Venda Descamari- Migjorn, 4292, 07860
Tel: +34 971 32 82 81
Best For: Lunch or Dinner
Best Dish: Can’t go wrong with the rices, and have the Neula for pudding (It’s the house specialty - even if you don’t want pudding - get one for the table!).
This is a special restaurant, definitely in my top five favourites. It’s a stunning setting, set just back from the beach, open walls and beautifully designed. The food is delicious and the service is good too. We had a really lovely night here, keeping the staff on their toes with constant request for more rosè and Piña Coladas (they’re VERY good!). You must order the Neula, the house specialty for pudding - get one for the table to share. Served in a special fish shaped dish, it’s a huge round wafer, filled with frozen cream cheese and Nutella that you break off pieces of to nibble on. One full one is enough for a big group (we were 12) if you just want a few nibbles each.
Image: Tuna Tartare and Tuna Tataki at Tiburon (copyright Bianca Hall)
Tiburon
Location: Absolute beachfront on Illetes Beach
Camino de Ses Illetes, 126, 07871
Tel: +34 659638945
Best For: Lunch or early Dinner (day menu stops at 7pm and switches a more basic menu)
Best Dish: Tuna Tartare
The first time we dined here were staying on Ibiza and a friend suggested a day trip to Formentera. We’d taken one of the free magazines where the restaurants advertise and flicked through it on the way and saw an ad for Tiburon beach restaurant which looked great, so we jumped in a cab at the port and went straight there for lunch, and to this day it remains one of our very favourite spots. I have photos of us there on that day, way before Baxter was even thought of, and many more since.
Despite our loyal patronage, and the fact that many of the staff are still the same, we have only been ushered to one of their two VIP tables once, and rarely get a glance of recognition. I suspect this is due to the fact that we are not high-rollers coming in on a super-yacht, splashing massive amounts of cash, ordering the 800 euro bottles of Cristal and leaving humongous tips, but that’s okay, we bloody love it anyway, and the service is good regardless. What’s that old adage - ‘treat ‘em mean and keep ‘em keen’?
I jest, kind of…it’s all about the sunset, sand floor and people watching here, and on a clear night, you can’t beat watching the sun drop into the beautiful sea on one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. It’s nothing short of magical.
It’s bench seats at long tables, so if you’re a small group and it’s busy, expect to share the table. The staff are the same year after year and very experienced and efficient. Sometimes even friendly. The food is good, and as you might have come to realise by now, expensive. You’re paying for THAT sunset, location and atmosphere more than anything. Great cocktails, as they should be at £19 a pop. This remains one of my all time favourite spots. The fact they have a live DJ most of the time playing oldies but goodies helps too!
Image: Sunset on Illetes Beach (copyright Bianca Hall)
Image: Fried Eggs with Crayfish at Casa Pacha (copyright Bianca Hall)
Casa Pacha
Location: Es Arenals beach Migjorn Beach
Camí es Arenals, Km.11, 07872 Es Caló
Tel: +34 971 31 35 35
Best For: Lunch with a killer view
Best Dish: Mellow rice with Lobster
The unexpected absolute winner for both Ed and I from this years vast array of lovely restaurants is definitely Casa Pasha. From the picture perfect views and perfect interior design, to the fabulous food which included a great kids menu, and spot on service, I honestly couldn’t fault it. I shared the Miso Aubergine with Burrata and Mellow Rice with Lobster. Absolutely divine on both counts, and they do an excellent Pina Colada too. Bet dinner is also brilliant. We’ll be back for sure, and it might well have knocked Tiburon of its perch, though you don’t get the incredible sunset on this side of the island.
Imagae: Cash Pacha (copyright Bianca Hall)
Insula Beach / Bichi
Location: Es Arenals Migjorn Beach
Platja es arenals, 4471, 07872, 07872
Tel: +34 624 047 305
Best For: Lunch
Best Dish: Sea Bream with Baby Vegetables
Great for lunch with a delicious, varied menu including a sushi menu, live music and beautiful beach views. The sushi menu and live music seems to be a daytime thing only, so stick to a lunch booking for the full experience. Great food and great cocktails!
Pelayo
Location: Migjorn Beach
Playa Migjorn, s/n, 07860 San Francisco Javier
Tel: +34 634 142 516
Best For: Supper
Best Dish: Grilled Sardines
Right on the beach with a local, family feel and good basic menu. Don’t expect anything fancy, and avoid the chaos and hype of the giant Sunday Paella (and I mean giant), which wasn’t good when we went and the staff were run off their feet and stressed. For a late night supper and drink though, it’s laid back and they have a good selection of cocktails too.
Macondo San Ferran
Location: Centre of San Ferran
Carrer Major, 67, 07871 Sant Ferran de Ses Roques
Tel: +34 638 31 70 33
Best For: Dinner
Best Dish: Pizza!
Fabulous pizza (and pasta and salads) outdoors in the main stretch of San Ferran. Great service, great food and super buzzing atmosphere. We tried to go when the night market was on, but the information published online isn’t current, so it remains a mystery to me which nights the night market actually is. We have been to the market before though, and it’s nice, albeit a little on the crafty side for me, but a fun atmosphere all the same if you manage to go when it’s on.
Note that they have another restaurant in a different area, so don’t do what I did and book for one, but turn up at the other. Doh! They’re clearly used to this happening though and dealt with it without a problem and were lucky able to give us a table for nine despite it being super busy.
Snacks and Take Aways
Bar Centro
Location: Opposite the church in the main square of San Fransesc
Constitution Square, 3
07860 Sant Francesc Javier
Best For: Drinks and snacks any time
A local and cheap offering right in the main square of San Francesc with an extremely affordable and basic guesthouse above. From tea and coffee to milkshakes and juices, to toast with butter, basic salads and baguettes, this is a brilliant place to stop any time of the day for a drink or snack and people watching. Cheap cocktails too!
S.A Pizza
Location: Calle Pla del Rei 58, 07860 Sant Francesc Javier
Best For: Cheap lunch or dinner on the run
Hours: 1pm - 11.30pm every day except Tuesdays
Instagram: @sap_izza
Great square pizza slices - take away only for lunch or dinner on the run, just of the main square in San Francesc, open from 1pm til 11.30 every day except Tuesdays. I believe they’re open all year ‘round and deliver too.
Panaderia Monolo
Location: Carrer de Jaume I, 11, 07860 San Francisco Javier
Best For: Cheap lunch or snack on the go
Hours: 7am - 2pm, 5.30 - 8.30pm every day except Sunday
The smaller one of two great bakeries in San Francesc, and apparently one of the oldest shops on the island, having opened in 1925, it’s great for a takeaway lunch on the trot, with several different options of empanadas, pastries, breads and cakes including ensaimada. They do run out though, so get there early for the full selection!
La Mukkeria
Location: Sant Francesc
Carrer de Marc Ferrer, 16, 07860 San Francesc Javier
Hours: 10am - Midnight, seven days a week
Best For: Keeping the kiddos happy any time, and great for a pudding while strolling around town at night.
An ice cream parlour with a huge number of flavours to choose from, right near the centre of San Francesc. Great for pudding, or afternoon tea!
To Drink
Image: Pina Coladas at Casbah Hotel (copyright Bianca Hall)
Kisoko 62
Location: Migjorn Beach
Camino de Can Simonet I, s/n, 07871 Platja de Migjorn
Best For: Pre-dinner drinks
Our favourite beach bar and a walk from Sa Plageta, this is a classic rustic spot to enjoy some early evening drinks, though don’t expect a great sunset from this side of the island. Great atmosphere though, and you can get basic bar snacks like empanadas and corn chips with guacamole. Try a Pomada which is a cocktail made from Menorcan Mahon gin, and cloudy lemonade.
Lucky Bar
Location: Migjorn Beach
Carretera La Mola, Km. 7.8, 07871
Best For: Pre-dinner drinks
Another great beach bar (and a walk away from Blue Bar if you want to head there for food and the completely bizarre Alien Show. I’ve not included Blue Bar as I had to draw the line somewhere or this post would never get published, but look them up if it intrigues you!), Lucky serves basic food during the day and a pretty decent Piña Colada. Busy, fun atmosphere, particularly in the early evening as they sun starts to fade.
Big Store
Location: Centre of Sant Francesc
Calle Isidoro Macabich 4, Sant Francesc Javier
Best For: A spritz or two any time and post dinner drinks
Iconic Italian owned cafe and bar in the centre of San Francesc, with tables outside under big umbrellas and a big screen for sports lovers inside. Great for an afternoon stop, some melon and ham with an Aperol Spritz, or pre or post dinner drinks and snacks. Big favourite of mine. There’s a little shop at the back where you can buy overpriced Big Store merch, but hey, you can’t get it anywhere else. They also have a Big Store in Milano.
Image: Aperol Spritz at Big Store (copyright Bianca Hall)
Some past memorable spots, and some still to explore another year…
Can Carlos (sister restaurant to Es Codal Foradat and Can Carlitos)
And finally, not on Formentera, but back over on Ibiza, we try to book evening flights so we can have lunch here on the way home. It’s close to the airport and it softens the blow somewhat as a last hurrah…
El Chiringuito
Location: Es Cavallet Beach
Playa Es Cavallet
Ibiza, 07830
Tel: +34 971 395 355
Best For: A special last hurrah
Best Dish: Tuna Steak Burger and Flambéed Mussels
Always crazy busy when we’re there for lunch at the beginning of September, but good service and amazing food and cocktails. Taxis from here can be a bit hit and miss so allow plenty of time if you’re doing a stop off on your way to the airport like we do. There’s an Oyster man called Robert that comes to your table to offer shucked oysters which are always incredible too. A really beautiful spot and good for celeb spotting too!
Image: Cucumber and Mint Daiquiri at El Chringuito (copyright Bianca Hall)